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London Fashion Week: Helen Kirkum's ‘Assemblages’ and commitment to sustainability


Amid the glamour and innovation of London Fashion Week, Helen Kirkum’s “Assemblages” presentation stood out as a bold and thought-provoking exploration of sustainable fashion. Challenging the traditional linear model of the fashion industry, Kirkum's collection offered an approach that celebrated the diverse materials, ideas, and collaborations that make up the ecosystem in which her brand exists.


(Photos by Can Levent)


The “Assemblages” presentation was a testament to Kirkum's commitment to reimagining the fashion industry’s approach to production and consumption. Embracing the idea that fashion does not have to follow a linear path of take, make, and waste, Kirkum showcased a vision of sustainability that is rooted in inclusivity, creativity, and community. Her collection embodied a harmonious blend of artistry and activism, inviting attendees to reconsider their relationship with fashion and the planet.

One of the most striking aspects of Kirkum’s presentation was her choice to feature Oscar, a transgender model with autism, as one of the models in her show. By championing diversity and inclusivity on the runway, the designer made a powerful statement about the importance of representation and acceptance in the fashion industry. Oscar's presence served as a reminder of the beauty and strength that comes from embracing individuality and celebrating diversity.


(Photos by Can Levent)


In addition to the powerful message embedded in her choice of models, Kirkum unveiled the highly anticipated second version of her iconic Palimpsest line. The collection featured a rich palette of colors, including charcoal, fig, sand, faded black, and worn white, which lent a sense of earthy elegance to the pieces. The quilted crossbody, laces handbag, and collaged leather neck wallet showcased her mastery of texture and form, as she expertly combined disparate materials to create unique and visually captivating accessories.


Kirkum’s commitment to sustainability was evident in every aspect of the “Assemblages” presentation. Her emphasis on collaboration and the interconnectedness of materials and ideas served as a poignant reminder of the collective responsibility we all share in preserving the planet. By reimagining fashion as a collaborative endeavor that transcends traditional boundaries, she offered a refreshing and inspiring vision of a more sustainable and inclusive future.


The  author and award-winning designer Helen Kirkum; and  Vikram Menon

(Photos by Can Levent)


In conclusion, Helen Kirkum’s “Assemblages” presentation at London Fashion Week was a triumph of art, activism, and sustainable innovation. Through her bold exploration of materials, ideas, and collaborations, the designer challenged the status quo and offered a collective way forward for the fashion industry. With the inclusion of diverse models and the launch of her captivating new collection, Kirkum demonstrated that fashion has the power to be a force for positive change and empowerment. Her visionary approach serves as a beacon of hope for a more sustainable and inclusive future in fashion.



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